In the world of masculine style, not all suits are tailored the same. Choosing the adequate suit means attention to size, shape, fabric and details. And that’s because a suit well tailored and wisely chosen, can totally change the allure of the person wearing it.
Style and size: the first objective
A flawless tailored suit outlines with distinction, elegance and clarity the masculine structure. Because of this, style and size – the proper length of the trousers and the suit jacket’s sleeves, fitting the suit jacket’s figure, the shoulder’s line, the proper length of the suit jacket’s back etc – are essential. In specialized stores you will find masculine suits in, at least, 4 styles: from those with comfortable and generous lines (the so-called “american” style), to slim fit or super slim modern shapes. In any circumstance, keep in mind that there is no such thing as one fit – “one size fits all”: suit jackets and trousers should be available in three different lengths: (short for men under 1.74 m height, medium for those in between 1.75 m – 1.80 m and tall for those over 1.81 m height).
Overall, I recommend you to buy the suit size (suit jacket and trousers) in which you feel most comfortable, without having a loose-fit. The two pieces can have different sizes: the number on the label is not important, thus the way in which you move in the chosen piece and how it fits. The perfect suit will give you freedom to move, and it will also shape your figure with a clear line.
Tips for an adequate size
The width of the suit jacket’s back: you try the suit jacket, you button all the buttons, then you cross your arms over the chest (or imitate the act of hugging). The suit jacket that has the proper size will not “hold you”: the sleeves won’t seem tight, nor the back short and tense. Also, check that there isn’t an X in the buttons’ area, when the suit jacket is buttoned. That X is a sign that the suit jacket doesn’t fit your size.
The proper length of the suit jacket: you try the suit jacket and button all buttons. Keep your arms next to your body. The proper suit jacket’s seam should perfectly “fit” in your palm or fist.
The length of the suit jacket’s sleeves: well tailored sleeves stop at the wrist and are at least 1.5 cm shorter than those of the shirt (these are measured with the arms loose next to the body, not stretched out or crossed over the chest).
The trouser’s length: classic fit trousers, loose, with a single fold above the shoes; modern cut trousers (slim, narrow) with a cuff just above the shoes that allows the socks to be visible.
Navy blue suit in 2 pieces, D’S Damat: 1.490 lei
Check grey slim suit, Bigotti: 1.512 lei
The best fabric
The structure of a good suit is given by the material used in the tailoring process. The woolen fabrics (different types of fabric) are a classic choice, but those for suits can be found in a variety of dimensions and textures. For example, the fabric isn’t reserved only for the fall-winter suits, as you might believe. There are light and very delicate woolen fabrics used to create spring suits. For summer, look for suits from linen, cotton or fabric and silk combinations, and for winter, choose a suit from a woolen fabric or a wool and cashmere combination.
The most elegant, diverse and trans-seasonal day suits are those in shades of navy blue and grey (anthracite or medium), followed by the suits in navy blue fabric with thin white stripes (pinstripe) and discrete checks. Leave the color black for the ceremony suit (smoking, cocktail suit), and for the warm months you can look for suits in shades of light blue, pale grey or beige.
Indigo blue wool suit jacket, Marks&Spencer: 675 lei
Woolen trousers, Marks&Spencer: 285 lei
Although the style and fabric of the suit are important, the small details are the ones that give the final touch, the refinement. No matter the price of the suit, the quality of work invested to tailor and finish the suit, will be seen in the hidden elements: seams, buttons, the way the lining and the inside pockets are tailored.